apparently, according to the guidebook, "chiles most attractive city".
Not in this weather, i assure you. Bloody freezing. Summer is well and truly over this far south, and the tourists have deserted the place. We managed to bargain this lady down for a room in her hotel from 42000 pesos to 10000 pesos (9 quid) as there is nobody here!
The city was one of the last outposts of spanish colonial rule i the americas. They were defeated by none other than a scotsman...lord thomas cochrane. check out http://gosouthamerica.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=gosouthamerica&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.royalnavalmuseum.org%2Finfo_sheets_thomas_cochrane.htm for info on him...colourful guy!
The undeniable highlight, is hanging around the fishmarket watching the sealions come up and debase themselves for some scraps. Some of the fights get a bit unruly. The smells, noises and outpourings of male bravado to secure a morsel is not unlike ellios chippy at the glamis centre in glenrothes...check it out at 8.30 on a friday night and see what i mean.
They were so absorbing that we only just caught the bus! Sweaty but seated, we continued south. The chilan bus companies are extremely attentive to your comfort, and even come to wipe the condensation off the windows so you can see out better. Against the mist and rain, however, it was a losing battle.