Arrived here in horrendous weather last night, and thankfully found a cheap hostel. In Ancud, on the north of the island. Chiloe is very dinstinctly seperate from mainland chile. Yes, I know its an island, but i mean in terms of culture. The island is abound with myths and folklore, including my favourite, TRAUCO...
He lures people into the forest, and is held accountable for numerous ill deeds. It is with the laydeez, however, that he shows his prowess. If the father of a child isnt known, it´s Trauco. You stick to that story hen...
Darwin claimed that these people had no contact with the Inca civilisation, and that 10-12 species of potato grew in genetic isolation here on acount of that. This evidence is behind a current process in international courts to patent the origin of these potatoes and register them to chiloe, which is greatly vexing the Peruvians and bolivians. In an age where genetic patenting has a growing economic viability, this is more contentious than it sounds. I am boring you..
The weather was gooorjus today, and a walk was had in search of some humboldt and maggalen penguins. Got a rural bus out to the middle of nowhere and trekked down to the beach, acompanied by a dog called Juano, who reminded me of my dads dog milo. We ate empanadas de mariscos in a lovely stilt-supported cafe on this windswept beach and then tried to talksome fishermen into taking us out. No dice. too rough, and the penguin colonies apparently left a matter of days ago. selfish ba*tardos! I only wanted a small one for a pair of original moccasins.
the day was incredible, not least thru the presence of three uncannily beautiful and kind dogs, who scorted us all the way back to the bus route. Rainbows, wild deer, rugged beauty. Two locals told us these dogs do this all the time, just for the crack. The decision has been taken to seek out one of identical nature and similar breeding in Barcelona.
Tomorrow to Castro to catch a boat to Curaco, where the oysters go for 10p a pop, and watch the sunset from a hammock (wrapped in furs.)